An Air Gun Hunting Overview

A jack-rabbit is "big game" when using "air".
Air rifle hunting is in some ways like bow-hunting or even a little like fishing with ultra-light tackle.

Similar to bowhunting in that you need to get fairly close with most air rifles and many require you to cock or pump before you can shoot, somewhat like drawing a bow.

When doing ultra-light fishing you are more likely to get some action because there are usually many more small fish. When using an air gun you are hunting for more abundant small game and pest. If such hunting is too slow you can start sniping at insects for fun.

There are exceptions, some very specialized larger caliber air rifles, but that's not what this page is about. The more typical air guns, even the best, will not reliably take game much bigger than jack-rabbits.

Advertising claims using words like magnum power, high power, extreme power, and such are a little misleading. Those words are true only when comparing air guns to air guns, not when compared with firearms. Claims of pellet rifles shooting at speeds of 1200, even 1600 fps. (feet per. second) are often made.

You can "bet the farm," those claimed muzzle velocities were with very light weight pellets. Some .177 caliber pellets weigh as little as 5 grains, that is about 40% less than the weight of a typical 8 grain .177 pellet. Such light weight pellets will start out faster, but loose the speed advantage quickly. For air rifle hunting many experienced hunters prefer pellets of normal weight or heavier.

Velocities of the best guns with "normal weight" pellets will most often range from about 800 fps to around 1100 fps and most often nearer to the low end of this range in the larger calibers.

Although the advertised velocities may be a bit misleading; we can still use them as a rough guide to categorize air gun power. For simplicity I'm only talking only about .177 caliber guns here. If you choose the same gun in a larger caliber you will get slightly to considerably less velocity depending on the gun type.  Less velocity can make it a little harder to shoot accurately because of a more rapid pellet drop, but the larger or heavier pellets sometimes add a little more energy or killing power.

Mouse in Hay Barn

400-600 fps.  Low end guns will usually shoot pellets at these speeds. These can be basic cheap spring air, pneumatic, or CO2 powered guns, or they can be expensive and extremely accurate target rifles or pistols.

Most pellet handguns shoot in this range of speeds. Even such low power guns can be used at close range for pest birds, mice, rats, frogs, snakes, insects...


600-800 fps.  Many guns in this middle range are used for hunting; especially in Europe. Some places in Europe don't allow firearms and limit air guns to about this power level. Many spring-piston rifles, inexpensive pump-up pneumatics, and even a few CO2 powered rifles can reach these velocities. The pre-charged pneumatic handguns can also reach these speeds. Head shots on animals of rabbit size at 20-25 yards are reasonable targets.

800 fps.-up.  Many shooters in the USA are going to buy these guns which will be advertised to shoot at much higher speeds. These guns can extend the range, but not by a huge amount; pellets loose velocity and energy rapidly. No gun, no matter how powerful, gives us an excuse for careless shooting. An air gun hunter should be thinking precision head shots, not power. Scopes made for air guns are highly recommended. Note: Spring air guns have reverse recoil and will eventually wreck any scope not made for that reverse recoil.

Fox Squirrel

Accuracy is 'possibly' even more important when air rifle hunting. While some air guns are extremely accurate; not always under hunting conditions. Hunters can be shooting with wind, poor light, around limbs, leaves, grass, from awkward or unsteady positions...

Some guns have excessively heavy, rough, trigger pulls. Some of the guns, especially spring air guns, can shoot differently, depending upon how they are held. Even the heaviest pellets will get blown  around by the wind.

Air rifle hunting is fun, but sometimes challenging.

Daisy Model 25 Memories

An add similar to this got my attention!

My first gun was a hard earned Daisy Model 25 BB gun. I can't remember if it cost $8, or if I was 8 years old; I think both. Probably the summer of 1955 and I would be 9 in November.

Me at age 8

I begged for the Daisy, Dad finally caved and said I could have it. If I cleaned out his 30 foot cattle trailer to earn it. I'll never forget that! A huge, nasty, job, and especially for an 8 year old kid.

I was neat and clean and liked to "keep my ducks in a row" as a young boy. I'm pretty sure Dad thought I'd not do the job and he wouldn't need to buy the gun. After a couple of hours work I was also thinking I'd never finish the job. But I kept working and thinking about that magnificent Daisy and what we could do together. It took most of two miserable days. I learned the value of a dollar. That gun, IT COST A LOT!

The Daisy Model 25 looked like a pump BB gun. I read somewhere that it was actually more popular for a few years than the better known lever action Daisy Red Rider. I personally learned that it would shoot harder. Mine model had rotating open and peep sights. With the peep I became fairly deadly within the guns very limited range. For a few years I felt like I was a step ahead of my cousins who had Daisy Red Riders.

Some of the shooting, I don't recommend:

• I learned that by standing directly under a high-line wire I only had to concentrate on left to right gun movement (windage); I could hit the wire about half the time. Not a great idea, but it made a cool sound when the BB hit the wire. PING!
• Jimmy (my cousin) borrowed my gun one day for some pay-back. He and his older brother Ronny both had Daisy Red Riders. Ronny had done something to make his shoot a little "harder". Ronny had also learned to stay just far enough away to hurt Jimmy, but not get hurt in their BB gun battles. When Jimmy borrowed my Model 25; it was Ronny who ended up dancing, yelling, and running for cover.
• One day, bored, and not in one of my smartest moments, I decided to shoot at my grandmother's concrete steps at short range. The BB came almost straight back and hit me in the forehead just above the eye. (Yea! You know what they say about BB guns and eyes.) It hurt, got my attention, and I learned something. 
• On another day a trick shooter came to our school. (Can you even imagine that happening today!) After seeing him strike a match using a twenty-two rifle, I spent the rest of that day after school trying to do it with a BB. I stuck a kitchen match between the boards at one end of my grandmother's old picnic table and rested the gun across the other end only about two feet from the match. After using most of a small pack of BB's and half a box of mom's kitchen matches; I finally did it!  

I was taught by the whole family not to shoot at songbirds, bottles, windows... I hunted almost every day. The Daisy and I were greatly feared by pest birds, lizards, snakes, frogs, insects... in the area.  I missed or didn't have enough gun for most of the shots, but it worked often enough to be great fun.

It was a simple, but very special, time. The gun was my constant companion until my twelfth summer. That summer I worked in the hay fields for an uncle and earned enough to buy a Browning twenty-two. The new gun was certainly an advancement, a step-up, but I'm not sure anything is better than being a young boy, free to roam with his imagination and his Daisy.

My impression of the "New" or reintroduced Daisy Model 25:
First I'll say that I'm better about passing up on things I don't really need today. But I "caved-in" and bought one of the new Model 25s for my two year old grandson. :-)

Don't count this as a review, only my first impressions, I've shot less than 100 BB's through the gun. Most important to me, this new gun felt very familiar in my hands, even  after being absent for more than half a century:

• Yes! It's made in China. 
• No safety on the original, but this new one has a simple trigger block, cross bolt safety. 
• The magazine tube has a different male screw-in adapter (I think it's easier to screw in.)
• Something which seems backwards to me: The new one has a wooden stock. Plastic was not that common in 1955, but I believe my old gun had a plastic stock.

I set up a Campbell Soup can (classic) at about twenty steps. I could hit it easily. The gun shoots harder than I remembered; it put solid dents in the can's thick metal. That hard shooting could be from "dieseling" there was some obvious factory oil and a little smoke when fired.

The trigger is numb, but better/lighter than I remembered, and the gun much easier to cock.

I'm not sure if this should be attributed to small changes to the gun, or more likely big changes in the shooter. I did pinch my hand when cocking it once. I smiled, thinking, maybe neither the gun nor I have changed too much.

Rimfire Scopes

A compact one inch scope seems appropriate on this small youth rifle.

The rimfire scopes and air rifle scopes are not too different from the centerfire scopes used for deer... If you choose the wrong scope it won't matter how good the quality or the brand-name you won't have the best.

What is different when choosing a rimfire scope?

• Small game and pest offer a smaller target. 
• Often they are at shorter range. 
• Rimfire rifles have very little recoil.
• Some air rifles have reverse recoil.
• You could want parallax correction. 
• The guns can be smaller and lighter.

A smaller target may suggest more magnification, but I caution you only slightly more magnification. Excessive magnification leads to more magnified movement, less field of view, shorter depth of field, less bright optics, and/or bigger scopes with bigger objective lenses.

If one magnification was offered most would suggest 4x. The 4x works for big game, small game, and most other uses. Sometimes it's a little too much for close up moving shots. Less often we need more magnification when we can't stalk any closer.  For small game the ranges are shorter, but the target is smaller so it often works out about the same. My point is that 4x is simple and most often it works fine.

The .22 long rifle is still the most popular rimfire. Small game and pest are usually shot at 50 yards or less. A 2-7x30 or 3-9x30 variable of decent quality makes sense. For small running targets at close range the 2x could be slightly better. For longer shots with good light and a solid rest the 9x could be slightly better.

The hot .17s, Winchester .17 Super Mag and .17 HMR have extended the rimfire's range. They offer a higher velocity, flatter trajectory (less bullet drop), and sometimes better accuracy. For all around shooting of small game and varmints with the hot .17's a 3-9x30 or 40 would be my choice. For more specialized small pest (ground squirrels maybe) and varmints at the max range a 4x12x40 could be in order.

Air rifles are still generally less capable than a rimfire. BUT! Good air gunners often get into precision shooting. Many enjoy plinking at very small targets, insects... While more typical air gunners use a 4x30 or 2-7x30. If your into precision shooting with a fine accurate gun you could want a 3-9x40PA or even 4-12x40AO. (I'll explain the PA & AO later.)

Recoil is not a problem with a rimfire and you can sometimes watch the bullet strike the target. Any good quality scope will not be affected by the recoil of a rimfire. Some air rifles however can require a scope made specifically for them.

Spring piston air rifles have reverse recoil. Don't put a fine quality $1000.00 scope on a spring piston air rifle. Even if it's designed for elephant rifles it may not be able to take the recoil from the opposite direction.  You need a scope designed for these air rifles.

Tube size:  Most scopes have a one inch tube diameter, but a few inexpensive air gun or rimfire models have smaller 3/4 or 7/8 inch tubes.  They work, but not very well.  I wouldn't recommend these cheap small tube scopes.

Scopes labeling: 4x30, 2-7x30, 3-9x40PA, 4-12x50AO... The first number indicates how much the image is magnified; for example a 4x will make the image appear 4 times larger. A 2-7x variable (zoom) can magnify the image 2 times or a ring can be turned to vary the magnification up to 7 times on that scope.

The x30, x40, x50 is the diameter of the objective lens bell or front lens of the scope. That objective lens size should be about 5 times the maximum magnification power of the scope. If the objective lens is less than five times the maximum magnification, it will work fine in strong light, but appear dark at dawn or dusk.

There is no serious advantage to such a big scope in normal light or at the low and middle zoom settings on a scope. Such big scopes can't be mounted low, they can look awkward especially on a smaller rifle, and they can unbalance smaller, lighter rifles.

PA or AO Sometimes the x40 or x50 is followed by the letters PA (Parallax Adjustable), or AO (Adjustable Objective Lens) which do the same thing.

To demonstrate parallax point your finger at an object across the room, close one eye, and then the other. You lined up the object using your dominant eye, and when you close the other eye, it's not lined up. This is a simple but dramatic example of parallax.

Rimfire scopes are set to be free of parallax at a typical rimfire use range (50 yds. maybe). Centerfire scopes at a longer but typical centerfire use range (maybe 150 yards). Both are compromises, but work fine for most use. Many hunters don't even know about parallax.

AO scopes allow you to adjust or focus for more precision shooting at the range of each shot. I've owned a few and my opinion is, "Most shooters shouldn't loose any sleep over parallax or having a PA scope."

If you get to be a precision air rifle shooter you may want one, but I've set mine for 20 yards, then forgot and used it on that setting for much longer shots, some I made, some I missed, the same as with no PA. Now I most often set it at a compromise range for the hunt and I often forget about it.

What else is needed in rimfire scopes; I believe very little. I like crosshairs which taper or step from thicker to thinner toward the center. The thick part is easier to see quickly, and the eye goes naturally to the central or fine aiming point which doesn't cover or hide too much of a small target. Most scopes now come with something like what I just described.

$ Money: I do believe money can buy quality up to a point, after that it only buys some possible prestige in the owners mind.

I don't feel the rimfire (or other) scopes need lighted crosshairs, bullet drop computation, or other such things. They only clutter and add to the confusion and sometimes at a critical moment; again my opinion.

Crosman CO2 Pistol Problems

2300T from the Crosman Website
My pistol looked similar.

I've already posted on my Beeman P1 which was a great gun and for the record I'm generally a Crosman fan. BUT! What I didn't tell in that post is that I bought another air pistol before the P1.

In those days when I made the trip to OKC I'd visit several gunshops if time permitted. I kept looking at the Beeman P1 which I eventually bought. The same gun store put a then new Crosman single shot CO2 pistol on display. It was advertised to be accurate and to have a muzzle velocity of 550 fps with light weight .177 pellets.

The gun looked similar to the Crosman 2300 bolt-action pistol made today. It was probably a model 1740, but  I'm not sure. I told myself the new CO2 gun should do almost anything a P1 could do for only $50.  The P1 was almost six times that price at $285 if I remember correctly.  I bought the CO2 gun!

The gun functioned well enough and the pellets did hit with considerably more authority than pellets  from my Crosman Mark 11.  The problem was the pellets went all over the place! At short range my Mark 11 was deadly accurate, more accurate than I could shoot it.

At short range my the Mark 11 would stack one pellet on top of the other when I did my part.  At the same short range this new gun would only shoot a two inch group, maybe.

For small game or pest  an air gun must have the accuracy needed for head shots.  I took a few small critters with this new gun, it had decent killing power, but I couldn't depend on it to shoot where it was pointed.

I know about guns and I tried everything short of those which could void the warranty:

• Going over the gun to find anything loose, improperly fitted... 
• Several different styles and brands of pellets. 
• I mounted a cheap little rifle scope on it to reduce my sighting errors.
• I shot it from several different kinds of rest.
• I tried holding the gun in different ways.
• It sounded and hit like the CO2 was metered consistently. 
• I couldn't see anything, but my hunch was that there was something wrong in the barrel.
• I wanted it to work for me, but it simply would not.

That gun is one of the few things, and the only gun I've ever returned to a store. I asked a shop employee what he could do to help me? He'd sold out of that model but offered a Crosman 357 (now called 3576, I believe) revolver of about equal value. The 357 appeared to be a good fun gun and it was. But it was not what I needed or wanted at that time.

Insect Hunting?

Trophy Game

We have all  most likely done some insect hunting at one time or another. Out there for hours and nothing is moving, maybe you're a little frustrated, bored, when a dragonfly comes into view, a big grasshopper, maybe a beetle running along the ground... a target of opportunity. I venture to bet that some big expensive loads are occasionally expended on such tiny prey.

When I was a kid with a BB gun I was always looking for new targets to prove or improve my shooting skills.  A wasp nest in the right place was a shooting gallery, I'd stalk a perched bumble bee or dragon fly... Insects were often the only plentiful, living, and available targets. I had great fun hunting insects.

"What goes around comes around!" Maybe I'm in my second childhood?  I recently spent the biggest part of an hour shooting perched dragonflies with my slingshot.  And! I'm not ashamed to say it was fun, even rewarding when I was accurate enough to hit maybe one of five shots.  I'm going for a flying/hovering shot next time.

This got me to thinking. Why do we hunt?

• To be out there in nature, for the fresh air, the scenery...
• For the challenge, to improve our skills, to discover...
• For recreation, to relax, to get away, as a diversion, to have fun...

People once hunted to eat! (My next post will be on how to field dress a dragonfly. ) Seriously, we should eat what we kill if possible, but not to many of us are out hunting today so we can have something to eat.  We're most often hunting because we enjoy it.

I'm calling it practice and I'm going out on a limb and saying that hunting insects is perfectly sane and fun thing to do.  The season is always open and the game is plentiful. You don't need any specialized equipment, and it's easy to find a place to hunt. 

My favorite tool is the slingshot. Even the simplest air gun is adequate for most shots. To take out a bug a lower power level is actually desirable because you can see your hit and that may add to the fun.  

It's also great fun to have a sophisticated super accurate air rifle with a high power scope to snipe little bugs with.  You may need a scope with AO (adjustable objective) as many scopes won't focus at short bug range.

I've shot flying dragonflies with a shotgun, but it's drastic over-kill.  For wing shooting at dragonflies loading a .22 with CCI shot shells is much more to scale and great fun.  

If insect hunting comes "out of the closet" I can imagine some manufacture jumping in the new nich with products such as the "super bug swatter combo package" with a thumb hole stock.  You can buy a shotgun with a thumb hole stock you know... and some think insect hunting is crazy!

My Beeman P1

Image from Amazon.com
My P1 was similar but all silver colored with a walnut grip.

The Beeman P1 has been around a long time and it is highly regarded as a great gun, one of the best available. But, I made a mistake when buying my P1.  This could save you from making the same mistake.

• The P1 is a high quality all metal German air gun. 
• It's made in .177, .20, and .22 caliber.  
• It's accurate and it has a fantastic adjustable two stage trigger. 
• It has a built in rail for easy scope mounting.
• A full cocking stroke requires only around 18 pounds of force.
• The spring piston moves toward the shooter giving it a little recoil similar to a firearm.
• Broken-in-guns can push a light weight .177 pellet near 600 fps, .20 to 500, .22 to 450.
• .177 caliber guns offer a "half-cock" lower power level if desired.

I already owned a highly regarded CO2 pistol, the Crosman Mark 11. That gun is somewhat popular today even though it has long been out of production.  The Mark 11 was a real bargain at less than $50 back in those days.  It's easy to shoot, has a decent trigger, mine was super accurate... but it only pushes a .177 caliber pellet a little over 400 fps.

I wanted a more powerful air pistol for more hunting capability.  I wanted to add a scope to further increase my range and accuracy.  I wasn't expecting too much range or hunting power from an air pistol, but I wanted to see what was possible.

After reading and  researching what was available I knew I wanted a Beeman P1. The P1 was/is an expensive air gun for me; the only one I could find was almost $300 (today $500.)  The only gun available was in .22 caliber, silver finished, and not a first choice for me.

Every time I made a trip to Oklahoma City for anything I would go for another look at what was available.  I wanted a blued version and I especially wanted it in .177 caliber. When I could stand to wait no longer, I told myself the .22 would give me a bit more range and I bought that gun.

My new P1 was great, everything I'd read and expected.  Beautifully finished, easy to cock, accurate, probably the best trigger I've ever used (My TC Contender's trigger was also great, but had a different feel.)

But I bought the gun to have more hunting capability.  The .22 pellets did hit with a little more authority, but not that much.  My old Crosman Mark 11 shot the smaller .177 pellets about as fast and while not nearly as nice a gun it could do 90% of what my P1 could do.

In my opinion very few air or CO2 pistols (generally only the pre-charged guns) have enough power to offer any advantage in larger than .177 caliber.  Had I waited and found a .177 caliber Beeman P1, I believe it would have fully met my expectations.

The Best Air Guns

Your best choice may be a little foggy with so many guns and gun types.

In recent weeks I've written individual post on the different types of air guns. I'll try not to repeat myself too much, so if you want more details please look back at some of those post.

Keep in mind that the best air gun for me, you, and the guy down the block are probably different. I'll work my way through each type of air gun (actually type of power plant) and offer some suggestions as to what may be the best uses for that type of gun.

Spring or Gas Piston: I'm starting with this group of guns because I believe they may offer the most to the largest group of shooters. Spring powered guns could include BB guns and some cheap clunky Chinese models, but that's not the guns I have in mind.

I'm talking about the group of guns which cost at least $100 and produce velocities of at least 600-700 fps in .177 caliber. Most of these guns actually are closer to $200 and are around 1000 fps in .177 caliber.

These are the best air guns for the house, the barn, or the truck to grab and use to take out some pest, do some hunting, or just go plinking when you feel like it. Simple, reliable, and with enough power and accuracy to get the job done.

If your main objective is occasionally shooting for fun choose a lower powered easier cocking model in .177 caliber. If hunting is high on your list, I'd make it a more powerful although harder cocking model. I'd prefer the gas piston in .22 caliber for hunting.

Pre-Charged: I see these guns as the guns for the more serious air gunners. These are generally not the guns you can grab and use without any preparation. With that said, these are the guns which can be the most capable of taking bigger pest and game at greater range.

These are the guns which may be able to stack pellets on top of each other at the greatest range and with the most impact. If I was planning to do some serious air gun shooting I'd go for one of these in .22 caliber.

CO2: These gas powered "air guns" are the fun guns. If you want to shoot in the backyard for fun or practice these could be your best choice. The CO2 cost extra, but it does the work so you don't need to do any heavy pumping or cocking.

Many of the guns are repeaters which function like firearm counterparts making them great for some kinds of practice. Most are 400-500 fps in .177 caliber so hunting is limited to a close up mouse or small bird occasionally.

Pump-Up: If you don't want to spend much money but you still want a gun capable of taking out some pest these guns can work. You pump these guns 2-3 strokes for lower power plinking or the full 8-10 strokes for better power and hunting... Some shooters are happy with this type of air gun, but I can't honestly say I'd recommend them for fun or hunting.

Single-Pump: While these are similar to the pump-up guns in many respects I can see more uses for them. The lower cost guns are also similar to most CO2 guns in that they can be great for backyard shooting. They do take a little more effort to cock or pump for a shot, but you don't need to buy the CO2,

The high-end guns are target guns capable of great accuracy. Even the best of these guns offer little to the hunter unless he wants to take out a wasp, a butterfly, or nail a mouse between the eyes at ten yards.

Posted with Blogsy

Rimfire or Air

L-R .22 's WMR, LR, Super Colbri, Short, Pellet, & .177 Pellet

Not too many years ago a rimfire would have always been my first choice for most small game and pest hunting, but things have changed.

For many years the price of common .22 rimfire ammunition increased very slowly. When I was a boy 50 rounds of .22 long rifle ammo was about $.75 and when I was middle age I could still find it for under a dollar. Yes! Those days are long gone.

Cost is a factor for most of us, and it's not only cost, it's also the availability. Although I don't shoot guns much anymore it distresses me to see store shelves with little or no rimfire ammunition on them.

So what are the advantages of a rimfire over an air gun. Ah! Actually not much if we compare the ordinary .22 long rifle to the better .22 caliber air guns.

• Tradition - some simply can't wrap their head around using an air gun.
• Simplicity - with a rimfire you load and fire while an air gun may require more of you.
• Versatility - guns chambered for the long rifle offers a wide variety of power levels, different velocities, bullet configurations, and even shot loads.
• The heavier .22 long rifle bullet is a little less likely to be blown off target by the wind.
• Power - the .22 long rifle is considerably more powerful than most air guns.
• Range - the .22 long rifle can sometimes be used at longer range than air rifles.

Do air guns offer anything over rimfire. Ah! Considerably More Sometimes!

• Pellets cost less than rimfire ammo and may be easier to find.
• If you shoot enough the savings in shooting cost may eventually pay for the air gun.
• Air guns are generally quieter and this sometimes allows shooting in more places.
• Air guns are somewhat less dangerous so you may gain access to more places to shoot or hunt.
• The best air guns can kill small game and pest further than a typical hunter is able to hit them.
A well placed pellet from a reasonably powerful air gun is deadly on small game.
Animals don't get any more dead because a more powerful round was used.

Real world, bottom line, or whatever you want to call it. I've shot a considerable amount of small game and pest with rimfires and pellets. Basically any well placed shot from a reasonably powerful round or pellet stops a critter and a poorly placed shot seldom does.

If you don't mind blowing up the animal a higher velocity more explosive round like a .22 Stinger, .22 mag., or a hot .17 caliber allows for more sloppy shooting than any pellet rifle. The ordinary .22 long rifle, not so much.

The air gun shooter may need to understand more about shooting and the limitations of his tools. He needs to pay attention to the details. He may need to spend more for a better quality gun and scope combination. Remember it's the gun which provides the power with air; not the cartridge.

I most often use a slingshot today, but if I wanted a gun for squirrels, rabbits, and small pest it would be a gas ram or pre-charged .22 caliber air gun with a 3x9 air gun scope. If I wanted a rimfire to take pest out at the maximum range, it would be the .17 Winchester Super Magnum.

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Single-Pump Air Guns

Daisy 953 image from Daisy.com 

I've been writing about the different types of air guns and almost left out this single-pump category.  Some shooters would be unhappy with me if I did that. This group of air guns could however be the least useful for hunters.

• These guns have an air tank which is similar but smaller than the multi-pump guns. Both pump-ups being considerably smaller than the pre-charged gun's air tanks.
• The single-pump gun's tank is designed to be filled with one pump or cocking stroke of a lever on the gun.
• The power level is more limited than that of the other pneumatic guns. Power is similar to a typical CO2 gun or around 400-550 fps in .177 caliber. I've never seen a larger caliber single-pump air gun.
• The power level limits these guns to very small pest at close range only.
• These guns, in the most basic inexpensive form, have somewhat replaced the spring air BB guns of previous generations.  They both require similar effort and give similar results.
• There are some mid-level pellet rifles and pistols which offer easy cocking, excellent accuracy, and appear to be great for low cost practice.
• There are also very high grade single-pump target rifles and pistols.  These guns are super accurate and often used to compete at the highest levels.

I've only owned one single-stroke pneumatic gun similar to the one pictured at the top of this page.  I used it a few times on very small pest, but generally found my CO2 guns to have some advantages  for those little jobs; easier and less movement required for repeated shots. I see this style of gun as a kids gun or a good choice for some target shooters.

Pre-Charged Air Guns

Benjamin Marauder .22 from Crosman.com website.

There was a time when I thought these pre-charged air guns were only good for a few very serious air gunners.  This is no longer true for several reasons:

• Air guns are now "main stream," far more popular than they were a few years ago.
• Air guns are more accepted by a greater number of more serious shooters.  
• This category of air guns was once more exclusively custom or semi-custom guns. 
• Some very good quality pre-charged guns are now available at competitive prices.

These pre-charged pneumatic guns have many advantages:

• Ease of shooting
• No heavy pumping or cocking after the tank is filled 
• No recoil as is common in spring or gas piston guns
• Typically very good to great accuracy
• Little noise from noise suppressed guns
• Power level is usually adjustable
• Generally the most powerful air guns available
• Faster repeating shots with no heavy cocking or pumping

Benjamin Charging System

Some of the disadvantages:

Benjamin PCP Pump

Images from Crosman.com website

• Complexity! You will need a high quality pump or more likely a bulk tank, air regulator... 
• Cost! While much less expensive than in the past; they generally more than some other guns once you add the pump or tank, regulator, fittings... 
• Inconvenience! You refill the gun's air tank with hundreds of pumps or more likely from a bulk air tank which must also be recharged at a scuba shop or somewhere from time to time.
• Limited shots! You get only so many shots per charge depending on tank size and power level.

Serious air gunners often choose a pre-charged gun today.  Many consider these guns to be the best available air guns.  Some of these guns in larger calibers are capable of taking bigger game.

CO2 "Air" Guns

Two of my Crosman CO2 handguns & pellets

Most people realize that while CO2 guns are very similar to air guns they are powered by CO2 gas.  Most often the gas comes in the form of the little self contained 12 gram cartridges.

Crosman has probably made more CO2 powered guns than anyone and surely more variations. Daisy  has also produced a good variety, especially handguns.  Benjamin and others have made both rifles and handguns.

Some CO2's advantages:

• Compact size - it doesn't require pumps, levers, big tanks... to work.
• Easy operation - no need for heavy pumping or cocking.
• CO2 power allows the guns to function more like traditional firearms. 
• Quieter than firearms.
• Good accuracy from many inexpensive guns. 

Some CO2 disadvantages: 

• Generally more limited power than air guns. (most often 400 - 500 fps )
• Limited number of shots. (40 - 50 shots typically per 12 gram cartridge)
• Loss of power at low temperatures. (From rapid firing or low air temperatures)
• Additional cost of the CO2 cartridges. (Around $.50 - $1.00 per cartridge)

Because of the characteristics of CO2, mostly simplicity and small size, it is most popular in handguns. Many handguns are made to look, feel, and function very much like some popular firearm.  Some even have slides which blow back in a way similar to ejecting a cartridge case on a firearm.

CO2 guns are a little under powered for small game hunting.  I've used CO2 handguns on close up birds, snakes, frogs, mice... with good results, but most often at less than 15 yards.

Longer barrels in handguns and rifles can improve the velocity/power level somewhat.  A few CO2 rifles achieve 600-700 fps. Some rifles use two 12 gram cartridges or the much larger 3.2 oz ones.

I'll add a more personal experience with the two guns pictured at the top of this page.  The single shot pistol was very accurate and reliable for about 40 years with little or no care.  The revolver was less accurate, but partially because when you fire more rapidly the CO2 gets cold and looses power.  The revolver lasted for more than 30 years with occasional use.

I usually carried the pistol along on fishing trips to a lake where there were numerous snakes in the springtime.  The pistol was accurate enough for head shots as far as I could make them. From my canoe I sometimes spent as much time shooting at snakes as fishing. I don't live close to that lake anymore. Today I take my slingshots with me when fishing and almost everywhere today.

The most fun I had with the revolver was shooting mice in a grain bin.  They would pop up out of the hay and give me quick shots, I missed often, but nailed a bunch of the little pest.

Spring Air Guns

Spring air guns, sometimes called spring piston guns, have been around for a long time. The guns can be low powered light weight guns like a kid's BB gun or more powerful small game guns which are sometimes physically larger and heavier than some big game rifles.


The firing cycle involves:

• Cocking the mainspring which automatically initiates a trigger safety on many guns.
• The mainspring is inside a chamber much like a simple bicycle tire pump.  
• The safety is released and the trigger is pulled releasing the spring.
• The spring pushes the piston home compressing air in the tube in front of it.
• The compressed air is funneled behind the pellet propelling it down and out the barrel. 

 Like almost everything spring guns have some advantages and disadvantages.

The Good:

• They are generally rugged, dependable, and accurate for thousands of shots.  
• They only require one cocking stroke before firing.
• They are usually quiet with a fairly soft report on firing.
• They are available in all price ranges and can offer good value.
• They are available in many different ranges of power.
• They come in a variety of styles, break barrel, under-lever, side-lever...

Not So Good:

• A dry fire (shot with no pellet) can wreck a spring air gun.
• Cocking powerful guns can require considerable effort, motion, and noise.
• Generally it is considered a bad idea to leave them cocked for long periods of time.
• Many have a strange backward recoil and vibration when fired.
• They may require learning of some new shooting or holding skills for best accuracy.
• The vibration and recoil requires that you use scopes made for spring air guns.
• More powerful guns are larger and heavier due to the need for a larger spring piston.

The gas piston guns or gas ram guns.  These rifles are similar to spring guns in most respects, but they don't use traditional springs. They use a gas or air shock somewhat like the gas pistons on a car's hatch...  

Don't misunderstand you don't fill a tank with compressed air like you do with a pneumatic gun. These guns have a sealed compressible tube of air or nitrogen which is squeezed or compressed with one cocking stroke and then released back to its normal state with the trigger pull.  When released much like a spring gun it pushes a piston which then compresses and pushes air behind the pellet.

Gas ram guns offer most of the spring advantages and less of the disadvantages:

• The gas piston's movement is quicker and has less vibration than a traditional spring.
• Gas piston guns are usually quieter and have less recoil than similar spring guns.
• The gas ram does not take a "set" if left cocked for extended periods of time.
• Powerful gas piston guns may be more compact than similar power spring guns.

I've read and it makes sense that spring piston guns tend to loose power very slowly after years of use and thousands of shots.  Gas piston guns tend to stop working suddenly when they are new or more often last for years and thousands of shots with no loss of power.

Multi-Pump Air Guns

Crosman Classic 2100 image from Crosman.com

Benjamin, Sheridan, Crosman, and Daisy multi-pump air guns were at one time about the only American made air guns with enough power to take small game.  Most of these guns reach max power with 8 to 10 pumps. These pump-up pneumatics have several advantages, but equal or greater disadvantages.  Note: We're not including the less powerful single pump guns or the pre-charged pneumatics which can be used with a separate hand pump to fill their air tank.

The Good: 

• Reasonably good power in a light weight and compact package. In .177 caliber with max pumps the rifles typically give 600 to 800 fps or more. Some pistols shoot well over 500 fps.
• For hunting they can be pumped up in advance and carried ready to fire one shot.
• Decent accuracy, especial when pumped to the same level for each shot.
• Very little recoil or vibration so they don't wreck scopes like spring-air guns can.
• Some cost a little less than other gun types of similar power and accuracy.
• Lower power, noise, and effort is available with less than the max pump strokes.

The Bad:

• When fully pumped up these guns can have a fairly loud Pop! and they seldom have any noise suppression available.
• Reloading and cycling the pump lever multiple times creates considerable noise and movement which will often alert any nearby wildlife.
• Second shot opportunities on game are less common than with some other air gun types.

The Ugly:

• Pumping, Pumping, Pumping... unless you enjoy the exercise it's soon no fun.

American Air Guns

Recent reproduction of the Daisy Model 25

The best known American air guns brands are Daisy, Crosman, Benjamin, and Sheridan.  Way back when I was a kid those were the only air rifles readily available.  I was/am a gun nut and I was in my late teens before I learned of the more sophisticated European pre-charged pneumatic and spring air guns. Today there are many more air gun fans and far more sophisticated guns made by these companies and others.

My friends and I once called them all BB guns. But then we also said we were going to get a Coke which could indicate any kind of soft drink. Almost every boy and girl has some experience with a BB gun of some sort. I think experience is underrated by most adults.  On my Basic Whitetail Hunting Blog I've written about my experiences, BB Gun Education.

That BB gun taught me about safety, responsibility, and hunting to name a few.  Many had less happy experiences where they or someone misused a BB gun shooting a person, animal, property...

Probably all kids heard an adult say, "Be careful, that thing can shoot your eye out." or something similar.  While many may laugh, an ordinary BB gun could do eye damage and some of the more powerful air guns can take big game, but this is on American air guns, especially the early ones.

For many years there were only two types of American air guns.  The simple low power spring air BB guns and the somewhat more powerful pump-up pneumatic pellet guns.  I owned one of each and they were probably among the most powerful examples for their day.

The Daisy model 25 was the more important gun to me, as mentioned it taught me a lot about life. It would shoot a BB slightly faster/harder than the more common Daisy Red Rider.  It would kill a lizard, snake, or sparrow if close enough.

Benjamin, Crosman, and eventually Daisy made pump-up or multi-pump pneumatic air guns in both .177 and .22 caliber.  I however chose the .20 caliber Sheridan. The Sheridan was a little more expensive, nicer finished, maybe a slightly higher quality gun.

Sheridan promoted the .20 caliber as the best pellet size with more velocity than the .22 pellets and more impact than the .177 caliber.  I think the real reason was to sell more pellets; the only .20 caliber pellets you could find were Sheridan pellets.

I don't know that the Sheridan was actually any more powerful than the other guns, but Sheridan pellets were harder and would penetrate deeper.  For that reason this was/is a somewhat dangerous air rifle.  I'll write more about pump-ups in another post.